When the Soviets did away with religion, New Year’s Day replaced Christmas as the biggest holiday of the year. Families would decorate a New Year’s tree (novogodnyaya yolka) and children would be visited by Grandfather Frost (D’yed Moroz) with presents. As for the celebratory dinner that evening, there was an unofficial menu that pretty much everyone adhered to. The table would be covered with a patchwork of small cold plates called zakuski (small bites) that were meant to sustain you through the evening as toasts were given and shots knocked back. The most famous and beloved, of course, being olivye (olivier) or stolichnyi (metropolitan) salat. A glorified potato salad originally dreamed up by nineteenth-century French chef Lucien Olivier for his famous restaurant in Moscow, it made its way to every corner of the USSR and beyond, where it became known simply as “Russian salad” in countries like Spain and Italy.
The Olivier of today is much less elaborate than it was in Lucien’s time (his featured both grouse and crayfish), but when done right, is still delicious. Tangy pickles, dill and parsley, green onions, and not to mention a light touch with mayo, keep our family’s take out of stodgy territory. When preparing it, just know that people have opinions when it comes to this salad—what should be included, what shouldn’t. I, for one, do not add any cut-up hot dog or bologna, chicken, or apple to my salad. As for fresh or canned peas, I stand by the latter out of nostalgia. If you disagree, feel free to use my version as a rubric and adapt it accordingly to your personal preferences.
This recipe makes a generous amount (perfect for parties), but you won’t have any trouble getting through a batch. As one recipe tester said, “I think this is the best Olivier I have made in my life.” - Polina Chesnakova in Chesnok: Cooking from My Corner of the Diaspora - Recipes from Eastern Europe, the Caucasus, and Central Asia.
Serves 6 to 8 as a side.
5 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (1¼ pounds / 570 g)
4 medium carrots, peeled
4 eggs
Kosher salt
One (15-ounce / 425 g) can green peas, drained and rinsed
⅔ cup (115 g) diced gherkins or pickles
¾ cup to 1 cup (180 g to 240 g) mayonnaise, to taste
1 small bunch of green onions, white and light-green parts only, thinly sliced
½ large bunch of dill, finely chopped
3 to 4 sprigs parsley, finely chopped
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 generous teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
Place the potatoes, carrots, and eggs (in that order) in a large pot and fill with enough water to cover the vegetables. Generously salt the water. Bring to a full boil. As soon as the water comes to a full boil, set a timer for 5 minutes. In the meantime, set up an ice bath in a medium bowl. Once the time is up, scoop out the eggs and transfer them to the ice bath. Set aside.
Cover the pot and adjust the heat to maintain a rolling boil. Cook the vegetables until a paring knife can slide through the center of the carrots with minimal resistance, another 10 to 15 minutes depending on thickness. Remove the carrots and add to the bowl with the eggs (it’s okay if all the ice has melted).
Continue cooking the potatoes until a paring knife can also slide through, another 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and allow to cool completely before proceeding.
When ready to assemble, peel the potatoes and eggs. Cut the potatoes, carrots, and eggs into ⅜-inch (1 cm) dice. Add to a large bowl. Add the peas, pickles, mayonnaise, green onions, dill, parsley, salt, and pepper. Toss to evenly combine and coat the vegetables. Taste and add more salt and pepper if desired. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.