HOT YOGURT AND RICE SOUP
Matsoni is Georgia’s answer to yogurt. Thin and mildly tart, the fermented dairy is thought of as an “elixir” to long life, given its numerous associated gut-health benefits. Among its many applications in the kitchen, from being dolloped onto dolma and kneaded into khachapuri dough, my favorite might be in providing the base for this quick-to-prepare soup. Warming yet light, bright yet full of body, matsvnis supi (or matsoni soup) is the sort of dish that cradles the seasons. Indeed, I often remember my aunt Olga preparing it on cool, rainy days in the springtime and early summer—or whenever one of us was, quite literally, feeling under the weather. This soup may not be life-extending, but life-sustaining? Absolutely.
Recipe from Chesnok by Polina Chesnakova
Ingredients
2 cups (480 g) plain whole-milk yogurt
½ cup (120 g) sour cream
1 egg
1½ quarts (1.4 L) water
½ cup (100 g) long-grain white rice
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon sunflower oil or extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, finely diced
¼ large bunch of dill, finely chopped
¼ large bunch of cilantro, finely chopped
1 large garlic clove, crushed through a press
Freshly ground black pepper
Method
In a medium bowl, whisk together the yogurt, sour cream, and egg to combine. Place the rice in another medium bowl. Cover with cool water and use your hand to gently agitate and swirl the rice, then drain. Repeat until the water is mostly clear.
In a medium pot, bring the water to a boil. Add the rinsed rice and 1½ teaspoons kosher salt. Cover, adjust the heat to maintain a low simmer, and cook until the rice is just shy of being done, 12 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion starts to turn golden and brown at the edges, about 15 minutes. You want the onion to slowly soften and caramelize, so if it’s starting to brown too quickly, reduce the heat.
Once the rice is done, reduce the heat to as low as it can go. Stir in the sautéed onion. Make sure the broth is not bubbling at this point. Whisking constantly, slowly pour in the yogurt/sour cream mixture and mix until fully incorporated.
Bump up the heat a bit to bring to a gentle simmer. Stir frequently to make sure the yogurt doesn’t curdle as the soup warms up again. As soon as you see the first bubbles, add the herbs and garlic. Taste and season with salt and pepper. You want the soup to be tangy and bright—if not, stir in a little more yogurt.
Bring back to a gentle simmer, then remove from the heat. Allow the soup to sit for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Any leftovers can be served cold or warmed up. Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Note: Unless you make your own matsoni using store-bought cultures , use the best-quality, tangiest plain yogurt you can find. Blending the dairy with egg and whisking it into the hot broth when it’s no longer bubbling will help prevent it from curdling.