Keema, a richly spiced minced meat, is a staple in many Pakistani homes. This is a unique variation that is first tenderized and marinated in a sharp spice blend and finished with “dhuni,” a cooking method in which you infuse your dish with coal smoke through a quick light coat.
It was served in the home of the late Khwaja Murtaza, my father’s uncle, at religious gatherings every Muharram in Islamabad. Muharram is the first month of the Islamic calendar and a period of mourning for Shia Muslims, who commemorate the death of Hussain, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad.
Depending on your city and ethnicity, special dishes are prepared during this month, like this keema, which was part of the Murtaza family’s menu for Muharram for several years. I have adapted the family recipe shared by their daughter-in-law, Yasmin. Traditionally, they served it with a side of Suji ka Halwa and paratha, but you can also have it with rice or Roti.
Ingredients
3 whole cloves
2 green cardamom pods
1 black cardamom pod
1 1/4 tablespoons cumin seeds
1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 1/2 teaspoons Kashmiri red chili powder
1 1/4 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1 pound (450 g) ground beef
1 1/2 teaspoons garlic paste
1 1/2 teaspoons ginger paste
1/2 cup (120 g) full-fat yogurt
1/4 cup (43 g) grated green papaya
1/3 cup (80 ml) vegetable oil
1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
1/3 cup (9 g) mint leaves
1/4 small red onion, thinly sliced crosswise
Method
In a small saucepan over low heat, combine the whole cloves, green and black cardamom pods, cumin seeds, and peppercorns. Roast for about 2 minutes until the spices darken slightly in color and become fragrant. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and grind into a coarse powder.
In a large bowl, combine the whole spice blend, chili powder, salt, and ground beef. Massage the seasoning into the beef. Take your time doing this. Once the keema is coated well in the spices, add the garlic paste, ginger paste, yogurt, and papaya and massage again until mixed well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or up to overnight.
In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat the oil until it begins to shimmer. Add the yellow onion and fry on medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes until the onion acquires a deep golden hue.
Increase the heat to high and add the ground beef. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring continually while crumbling the beef with a spatula to give it a fine, paste-like consistency. Lower the heat to medium and cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid. Let cook for another 15 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated, stirring occasionally to make sure the meat is not sticking to the pan. Once the meat is ready, turn off the heat. Place a heatproof bowl into the pot.
Optional - Light a small charcoal and, using tongs, place it in the bowl. Pour 1 tablespoon oil over the coal and cover the pot immediately. Smoke the keema for 5 minutes. Omit this step if you want to opt out of the smoky finish. Remove from the heat. Using oven mitts, carefully remove the bowl and let the charcoal cool completely before discarding safely.
Garnish the keema with mint leaves and red onion to serve.